Macedonia Orientale e Tracia

1923 was supposed to erase every Muslim presence from northern Greece, as happened elsewhere in the great population exchange between Athens and Ankara. In Thrace, however, the Treaty of Lausanne made an exception: the r...

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Featured region Albania

Albania Centrale

In 1920 Tirana was little more than a large Ottoman town of twenty thousand souls gathered around a mosque and a covered bazaar: today it is a capital of almost half a million inhabitants, and it is precisely in this gap...

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Featured region Greece

Grecia Centrale

According to myth, Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the world and sent them flying toward one another: they met over a valley at the foot of Mount Parnassus, and it was there that the stone of the omphalos,...

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Featured region Montenegro

Montenegro Centrale

Podgorica has changed its name four times in less than a century — Ribnica, Podgorica, Titograd, and Podgorica again — while some thirty kilometres away Cetinje still holds the official title of "royal capital" even thou...

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Featured region Greece

Epiro

In January 1822, on a small island in the middle of a mountain lake, an eighty-year-old Ottoman lord barricaded himself on the top floor of a monastery while the sultan's soldiers broke down the doors below. It was Ali P...

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Featured region Greece

Grecia Occidentale

Travelers arriving by ferry from Ancona, Bari, or Brindisi first see the lights of the port of Patras, and then, looking west, the suspended arch of the Rio-Antirrio bridge that welds the Peloponnese to mainland Greece:...

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Featured region Greece

Egeo Settentrionale

From Chios to the Turkish coast at Cesme the sea measures barely seven kilometers: you can see the land opposite with the naked eye, yet everything here has spoken Greek for three thousand years. The North Aegean is an a...

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Featured region Montenegro

Montenegro Settentrionale

In January 1916, on the snow-covered heights above Mojkovac, the army of the small Kingdom of Montenegro held out for three days against Austro-Hungarian troops, buying the time needed to bring the government to safety a...

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Featured region Italy

Veneto: From the Dolomites to the Venice Lagoon

Veneto is a mosaic of landscapes and civilisations packed into a single region: the Dolomite peaks of Cortina and the Marmolada, a UNESCO World Heritage site, descend toward the Prosecco hills and the Euganean Hills, the...

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Featured region Greece

Sporadi

The ferry from Volos has barely cut its engines before the scent of pine resin drifts into the cabin, mixed with salt: it rarely happens, in the Aegean, that an archipelago announces itself by smell before by sight. The...

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Featured region Albania

Albania Orientale

In December 1916, French troops advanced up the Devoll valley and proclaimed a short-lived autonomous republic in Korça: an almost forgotten episode that says a great deal about this corner of Albania, a borderland where...

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Featured region Greece

Creta

Crete is not only the largest island in Greece, but a true miniature continent floating in the heart of the Mediterranean, suspended between myth and reality. Defined by the ancients as the 'land of the center', this isl...

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